Scuba Sportswear Fabrics
Double-knit polyester-spandex with a spongy, structured hand that holds garment shape without interlining. Not neoprene — a comfortable, washable, wrinkle-free alternative for warm-up jackets, athleisure, and fashion-performance sportswear.
What Is Scuba Fabric?
Scuba fabric is a double-knit polyester-spandex textile — two separate knit layers connected by fine binding threads, creating a dense, smooth, slightly spongy fabric with moderate stretch. It is produced on a double-knit circular machine (not calendered like neoprene), which means it has a genuine textile hand feel rather than the rubbery stiffness of synthetic rubber sheets. The result is a fabric that holds its shape like a shell material but stretches, drapes, and comforts like a knit — a combination no single-knit fabric can achieve.
Our scuba is typically 92/8 or 95/5 polyester-spandex, knitted at our Sialkot facility on double-knit circular machines. We produce it in weights from 180 GSM (light scuba for fitted tops and leggings) to 320 GSM (heavy scuba for structured outerwear and warm-up jackets). The fabric is smooth on both sides (unlike some double-knits that have a distinct face and back), which means it can be used for reversible garments — a popular construction for warm-up jackets where the team wears one color going to the match and reverses to a different color at half-time.
Every scuba batch is tested for thickness consistency (micrometer across 10 points), stretch and recovery (cycle test to 20% extension, 10 cycles), pilling resistance (Martindale), color fastness, and wrinkle recovery angle. Scuba that doesn't spring back to within 5% of its original dimensions after the stretch-recovery test is re-knitted — loss of recovery means the garment will bag out during wear.
Available Scuba Constructions
Different weights and surface treatments for different garment positions and performance requirements.
Weight & Structure Relationship
In scuba, GSM directly determines how much inherent body the fabric has — this is the key decision variable.
Leggings / Tops
Dresses / Skirts
Warm-Up Tops
Jackets / Coats
Outerwear
Color Options for Scuba
Scuba's dense double-knit structure produces exceptionally deep, rich colors — one of the most color-beautiful sportswear fabrics available.
Built-In Structure Properties
Scuba's value isn't in moisture management or wicking — it's in structural properties that eliminate the need for additional garment construction materials.
Inherent Body & Structure
The double-knit construction creates a fabric that holds its shape without interlining, fusible, or stiffening. At 250+ GSM, scuba panels maintain structured silhouettes — A-line skirts, stand collars, fitted bodices — all from fabric alone. This eliminates construction steps, reduces garment weight, and prevents interlining delamination over time.
Zero Wrinkle Formation
Scuba's dense structure and spandex content give it near-perfect wrinkle recovery. Pack a scuba jacket into a gym bag, sit on it for an hour, pull it out — it looks freshly pressed. Wrinkle recovery angle exceeds 95% in lab tests (vs. 60–70% for standard polyester jersey). This is why scuba dominates the warm-up jacket category.
Wind Resistance
The dense double-knit structure with minimal air gaps provides meaningful wind resistance — not waterproof, but significantly reducing wind chill compared to single-knit fabrics. At 260+ GSM, scuba blocks approximately 80–90% of wind penetration, making it effective as a light outer shell for pre-game warm-ups and cool-weather training.
Doesn't Fray When Cut
The double-knit structure locks the yarns in place — cut edges don't unravel or fray like single-knit fabrics. This enables clean raw-edge finishes, exposed seam constructions, and reduces the need for hemming or binding on edge details. It also means less fabric waste from seam allowances.
Four-Way Stretch with Recovery
With 5–8% spandex in a double-knit structure, scuba stretches in both directions and recovers to within 3–5% of its original dimensions after 10 stretch cycles. This gives fitted garments a body-hugging fit that doesn't bag out at the knees, elbows, or seat — a critical property for athleisure leggings and fitted dresses.
Water-Resistant Surface
The smooth, dense surface of scuba fabric has a naturally high water contact angle — light rain and splashes bead up and roll off rather than soaking in. This isn't a DWR coating (which can wash off) — it's an inherent property of the dense knit structure. For light weather protection without any additional treatment, scuba performs surprisingly well.
Reversible Construction
Because scuba is smooth on both sides (identical face and back), it can be used for reversible garments without any lining or additional construction. A reversible warm-up jacket — one color on the outside, a different color on the inside — is one of the most popular scuba applications in team sportswear.
Premium Hand Feel
The combination of smooth surface, slight sponge, and structured drape creates a hand feel that registers as 'expensive' to consumers. It doesn't feel like standard sportswear fabric — it feels like something from a fashion house. This premium perception is why scuba commands 30–50% higher retail pricing than standard polyester jersey at the same GSM.
Where Scuba Fabrics Go
Scuba dominates where garment structure, wrinkle resistance, and premium presentation matter more than moisture wicking.
Scuba vs. Neoprene vs. Ponte Knit
Three dense, structured fabrics that look similar but behave very differently — choosing the wrong one is an expensive mistake.
| Property | Scuba Knit | Neoprene Sheet | Ponte Knit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Polyester-spandex double knit Textile | Synthetic rubber (polychloroprene) Rubber | Polyester-rayon-spandex double knit Textile |
| Hand Feel | Smooth, spongy, springy Comfortable | Rubbery, stiff, unyielding Uncomfortable | Firm, dense, compact Structured |
| Breathability | Minimal but exists Slight | Essentially zero None | Minimal but exists Slight |
| Weight (typical) | 180–320 GSM Light | 1000–3000 GSM Very Heavy | 250–400 GSM Medium |
| Stretch | 15–25% (4-way) Best | 0–5% (minimal) Rigid | 8–15% (2-way) Moderate |
| Wrinkle Resistance | 95%+ recovery Excellent | 100% (doesn't wrinkle) Perfect | 85–90% recovery Good |
| Care | Machine wash cold Easy | Hand wash only, no heat Difficult | Machine wash cold Easy |
| Skin Comfort | Comfortable for all-day wear Good | Irritating with prolonged contact Poor | Comfortable Good |
| Cost per Meter | $3.00–$5.50 Mid | $8.00–$15.00 Expensive | $3.50–$6.00 |
| Best For | Warm-up jackets, athleisure, structured sportswear, reversible garments | Wetsuits, knee pads, protective gear — NOT fashion garments | Tailored trousers, structured blazers, formal athleisure |
Honest Assessment
- Built-in structure — holds garment shape without interlining, reducing construction cost and weight
- Wrinkle-free in practice — pack it, sit on it, crush it — it bounces back looking pressed
- Wind-resistant dense structure — 80–90% wind block at 260+ GSM without any coating or lamination
- Doesn't fray when cut — enables raw-edge finishes and reduces hemming requirements
- Reversible without lining — identical face and back make two-color garments simple and cost-effective
- Premium hand feel — the spongy, structured touch registers as "expensive" to consumers, justifying higher retail pricing
- Excellent stretch recovery — fitted garments maintain their shape through 150+ wash cycles without bagging
- Poor breathability — the dense double-knit traps heat and moisture; unsuitable for high-intensity or hot-weather sports
- Limited sublimation quality — colors come out 10–15% lighter and less sharp than on single-knit fabrics
- Heavier than single-knit alternatives — 220 GSM scuba feels equivalent to a 300 GSM single-knit in terms of perceived weight
- Higher cost — 50–100% more expensive per meter than standard polyester jersey at comparable GSM
- Heat-sensitive — spandex degrades above 60°C; no hot ironing, no hot tumble drying, limits decoration heat
- Not moisture-wicking — sweat stays against the skin rather than being transported to the fabric surface
- Can feel stiff to some wearers — the structured hand that some love feels "uncomfortable" to athletes used to soft, lightweight jerseys
Branding Scuba Garments
Scuba's dense, smooth surface changes the decoration calculus — screen printing often outperforms sublimation here.
Screen Printing
The recommended primary method for scuba. The dense, smooth surface provides an ideal substrate for screen ink — the ink sits on top in a clean, sharp layer with excellent opacity and color vibrancy. Standard plastisol cures at 160°C (within scuba's safe range) and produces results that are actually sharper and more vibrant than sublimation on this fabric. For team warm-up jackets with 1–4 color logos and player numbers, screen printing is the clear winner — better color accuracy, lower cost per piece at volume, and no design compensation needed.
Sublimation (with Caveats)
Sublimation works on scuba — the polyester component accepts dye — but the dense double-knit structure limits dye-paper contact, causing colors to come out 10–15% lighter than on single-knit jersey. Dark colors and bold graphics look acceptable; light colors, gradients, and fine detail look washed out. We compensate by darkening artwork values, but the result is still not as crisp as on standard polyester. Use sublimation on scuba only when you need all-over print coverage — for spot graphics, screen printing is definitively better.
Embroidery
Excellent on scuba — the structured fabric provides a firm, stable base that supports dense stitch counts without puckering or distortion. Embroidery on scuba looks premium because the fabric's body prevents the stitches from causing the surrounding area to bunch or warp (a common problem on lightweight single-knits). Best for chest crests, sleeve logos, and collar marks on warm-up jackets. Use cutaway backing (not tearaway) for the best results on scuba's dense structure.
Specify Your Scuba
GSM and spandex percentage are the two decisions that define everything else about your scuba fabric.
GSM Target
180–200 GSM for light fitted garments, 220–260 GSM for the sweet spot, 280–320 GSM for heavy outerwear and maximum structure.
Spandex Percentage
5% for moderate stretch (jackets, skirts), 8% for high stretch (leggings, fitted tops). Above 8% increases cost and reduces sublimation quality further.
Surface Finish
Standard smooth (slight sheen), matte (dulled surface for a more understated look), or brushed (subtle texture for a more casual hand feel).
Reversible Option
Same color both sides (standard) or different colors on face/back (reversible — requires dual-color knitting setup, adds 10–15% to fabric cost).
Color / Sublimation
Piece-dyed for solid colors (best color depth on scuba) or white base for sublimation (accept the 10–15% lightening or use screen print instead).
Decoration Method
Confirm screen print (recommended for scuba), sublimation (all-over only), or embroidery (premium crest/logos) — this affects color and construction choices.
Ordering Process
Scuba's double-knit production is slightly slower than single-knit — the timeline reflects this.
Inquiry
Day 0Samples
5–7 DaysApproval
2–3 DaysProduction
16–22 DaysDelivery
4–7 DaysMOQ, Capacity & Lead Time
Frequently Asked Questions
The Structured Fabric System
Scuba handles structure and presentation — these fabrics handle the other layers in a complete garment system.
Ready to Start Your Scuba Order?
Get a detailed quote with GSM options, spandex ratios, surface finishes, and free swatches — typically within 4 business hours.